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March 2007 in Kyoto 京都市
This was our second day trip to Kyoto. We visited Fushimi Inari Shrine, Nijo Castle and the Teramachi Fish Market. All I would highly recommend to anyone considering a trip to Kyoto.
Fushimi Inari Shrine
The Fushimi Inari Shrine, founded in the 8th century was featured in the 2005 film Memoirs of a Geisha. The girl running through the red gates was one of the many spectacular scenes in the movie. It is quite close to Kyoto Eki, so we took a quick JR ride over to have a look.Inari is the Japanese god of fertility, rice, agriculture, foxes, industry, and worldly success. There were many offerings of sake and food at the temple. Fushimi is the ward of Kyoto, famous for its sake, where the shrine is located..
This sign shows the large number of gate covered paths. You could really spend hours wandering and enjoying it all.
A lovely shrine just before the first gate covered path. The old roof was actually spectacular and gave a great feeling of age.

My "Koutuuanzen sticker" for the car, to protect me while driving. Featuring the Foxes/ Kitsune associated with the temple.
Looking through the Torii/gate, back toward the main temple

Some fox (Kitsune) statues in the temple. There are many fox states I failed dismally at trying to throw a coin through the hole.
The first gate
Walking through the torii. This was the start of our walk
It was quite dark inside the gates and a very eerie

People were everywhere and added a buzz to the day, the good thing was that a pause could give you enough space so you could feel alone.
Looking back the other way gives a different experience as all the torii are set facing the same direction. The torii are covered in writing.
Some offerings. Including sake.
Further up the path, you get a picture of how many torii there were.
Not too far up, but we wanted to see more of Kyoto so we turned back here. If we go again then I may take the time to do the full 2+ hour walk. But this was a satisfying end to Fushimi Inari.
Nijō Castle
Without having a particular order to the day we took the subway around to Nijo castle. The main reason was to see the Nightingale floors. They were actually better than I expected and they produced a beautiful noise as we walked around inside the palace.Nijo castle was constructed near Kyoto's imperial palace. It was begun by Tokugawa Ieyasu and can be seen as a demonstration of the power of the new shogun family. The castle contains two palace complexes!

Sometimes an aerial shot gives the concept of space that a photo from ground level does not. Nijo castle is huge, impressive and a must see. It is also in downtown kyoto. The ariel shot above makes you think that the castle could be anywhere but look at the shot from google maps and see the city around it. Castle on Google Maps

My best shot of the outer edge of the castle showing the traditional sloping/ fan walls. Compare this image to the ariel shot above, as they are the same corner of the castle.
Ninomaru Palace
Gate to Ninomaru Palace

Photography inside the palace is banned!. This image is from the official guidebook. I have scanned it as It gives a good idea of the inside of the palace and why is is so worth visiting the palace. There is an outer walkway with the rooms all on the inside. The outer walls are delicate sliding doors and although can be opened are kept closed to protect the wall coverings.
As you walk around, each room is delicately painted by famous artist from the period. The room above is painted by Tanyo Kano (Sometimes Kano Tan'yu).

Another wall covering inside the palace

One of the amazing things about the palace is the floorboards. Designed to protect from intruders, the floors squeak as you walk on them. The noise is slightly musical and creates an eerie atmosphere as you walk around the inside of the castle.
LISTEN TO THE SOUNDS: Nightingale floorboard Footstep Sounds
Honmaru Palace
The Honmaru Palace is the second palace inside the castle complex. It is the most protected, being inside an inner moat and walls.
The original 5 story tower complex built in 1626 burnt down. The current building, the Honmaru Palace was relocated from the Imperial palace in Kyoto in the1890s. The current building dates from the 1840s and I have to say that the Honmaru Palace did not impress me much. It is a pretty bland contrast to the awe inspiring Ninomaru Palace we had just seen, it is less decorative, more modernised, and you had to carry your shoes!
Island garden in Nijo castle
Teramachi Fish Market
We can only do so many temples in a day, so we had a bit of a change in tack and went into central Kyoto for a bit of a shop! Teramachi fish market was recommended in the guide book and not having any other plans off we went.We found Teramachi market by walking through a lange undercover market and turning right when we reached the temple in the picture. Yes the temple is in the shopping centre. The shopping centre probably grew around it. But it is quite a strange sight with the sock shop beside it.

A great market to walk through. Full of very Japanese foods and smells. The fish market is recommended by Lonely Planet as a must go spot, I definitely agree. The market is part of a wider covered market and is a great break from the temples.
Dried fish
Sandals

Dried Fish on a stick. Note the prices 八00 円 (800 Yen) , 三00円 (300 Yen)
Something on a stick. Quick snacks seem often be be on a stick, bendi desu.
Vegetables for sale. One of the most daunting purchases for me as I have no idea what to cook with them.
Radishes
Higashi Honganji
After the market we walked back to Kyoto station. It was a nice change of pace and allowed us to stop in at Higashi Honganj. We knew it was under renovation, so expected just a quick look. The Higashi Honganji Shrine is about a block from Kyoto station so it is conveniently located.After the renovations finish (still years away) this will again be a speculator place to visit . I have to say it has probably the most impressive gate of all the temples we visited. If you are near the station, walk up just for the gate!
The spectacular main gate and entry to the temple. Compare the people walking through the gate and you will get some concept of how big it actually is.
Inside the temple complex looking back toward the gate The beautiful gardens are behind me and the huge restoration works have been conveniently cropped from the shot.

Another Dragon with the cleansing water.

Taxis outside Kyoto station. There is little problem getting a taxi when there are so many around. It always amazes me how many taxis there are, especially considering that they are fairly expensive.
That was it! Another day in Kyoto. Very enjoyable. Have a look at the Photo gallery for our other trips.